CITERNA

Interesting Things to Do

Just when you think you've seen all the hilltop towns of the Upper Tiber Valley, along comes Citerna. This lovely little hilltop village is situated between Umbria and Tuscany and is a perfect half-day trip from Città di Castello (about 15km) or any of the surrounding villages.

Citerna, essentially a single street (Corso Garibaldi) surrounded by medieval walls, is very clean, and charming but usually very quiet. On the day I visited Citerna (March 2007), the village was preparing for the arrival of the Italian Tourism Board committee in hopes of adding their quaint village to Italy's list of "Belle Città" (beautiful cities). This recognition could help the village economically and it was clear that everyone seemed to have a hand in making a good impression. Workers were hurrying to chop away dead branches from the many pine trees that surround Citerna and ground crews were giving final touches to their beautification of the main piazza. The street was lined with flowering plants while a couple of dogs lazily slept through all the noise. Currently, most of the tourists who wander the sleepy streets of Citerna are Italian. Citerna is rarely depicted as a top tourist site in guidebooks but, in our opinion, while Citerna is relatively quiet, it has its own unique charm and appeal.

A walk through Citerna's main street is a stress free activity with no cars or motorbikes to dodge. In fact, a small child played happily in the middle of the street while his grandmother spoke to a neighbor. The medieval architecture is enchanting and there are plenty of shady benches to sit and soak in the views. There are also two public gardens and a playground within the historic center. The one bar, in the main piazza, seems to be the meeting place for the 250 or so residents where slowly, throughout the day, many wander in looking for coffee and conversation.

The village's main attractions are the early 14th century church of San Francesco, altered in Renaissance style in 1508 (currently under restoration) and several historical paintings. The church of San Michele Arcangelo contains a Crucifixion by Pomarancio. But, Citerna is so much more than its churches. It is a peaceful, relaxing place to unwind and breathe in the fresh air of the Upper Tiber Valley.

'Madonna di Citerna'

A terracotta sculpture representing The Virgin with Child - was discovered in the small church of San Michele in Citerna in April 2005. This sculpture is believed to be the work of Donatello (dating somewhere between 1415 and 1420) and is currently being renovated in Florence at the Opificio delle Pietre Dure. Several experts have studied the sculpture and attributed it to Donatello because of style techniques that the young artist used; the balance of form of this Madonna is slightly inclined in a similar way to other Donatello sculptures and the way the clothing is draped. It was once thought to be a piece by Luca della Robbia.

TIPS

• Suburbs of Citerna, known as "frazione", are Fighille and Pistrino. (Pistrino is a nice little town worthy of a quick stop.)
• If you're in the area, you might want to take a few minutes and go over to Monterchi. A medieval village built on a very ancient and holy roman place (Hercules fertility springs), just over the Tuscan boarder from Citerna. The world-known cultural jewel of Monterchi is the fresco 'Madonna del Parto' by Piero della Francesca.
• If you're looking for a clean reasonably priced place to stay in Citerna, look no further than Hotel Sobaria. This quaint hotel, with private terraces and a swimming pool, offers unbelievable rates year 'round. (Singles for 35 Euro, doubles for 60 Euro and triple rooms for 70 Euro) It also has an onsite restaurant that can accommodate groups for meetings or conferences. Ask for Piera - she is an incredibly helpful person.
• Another place to stop and chat while in Citerna is the recently opened tourist information office at IPN Castello, a property management company. Friendly and warm representatives greet you and answer any questions you may have. If they don't know an answer, they are eager to walk with you down the street until they come across someone who does!